Japanese curry: the comfort food that became a national obsession

Japanese curry arrived in Japan in the Meiji period, introduced by British naval officers who brought with them the Anglo-Indian curry powder that had become standard in the British military. Japan received it not as an exotic import but as a practical, nutritious meal for modern soldiers - and adapted it almost immediately into something unrecognisable from its origin. By the mid-20th century, Japanese curry was a national staple. Today it is estimated that the average Japanese household eats curry rice at least once a week. Some surveys rank it as the single most popular dish in the country.

What makes Japanese curry different

Three characteristics separate Japanese curry from the Indian, Thai or British versions it descended from. First, the roux: Japanese curry is thickened with a cooked mixture of fat and flour, producing a sauce with body and a slight clinginess that other curry styles do not have. Second, the sweetness: Japanese curry is noticeably sweeter than most other curries - from caramelised onions, from the addition of apple or other fruit, from the mirin sometimes added to the sauce. Third, the spice level: Japanese curry is mild by default. The heat is present but restrained, which is partly why it became so popular in school canteens and convenience stores.

Making the roux from scratch

Melt butter or ghee in a heavy saucepan over medium-low heat. Add an equal weight of plain flour and cook, stirring continuously, until the mixture turns a medium-brown colour - about ten minutes. The roux will smell nutty and slightly caramelised. Add your spice blend (cumin, coriander, turmeric, cardamom, fenugreek, chilli) and cook for another two minutes. This roux can be stored in the refrigerator and dissolved into stock later. Most home cooks use a commercial curry roux block (S&B or House brand) for weekday cooking - a legitimate and excellent shortcut.

The vegetables and the step that matters most

Onion, carrot and potato are the classic trio. The onion step is where most home curries go wrong. The onions must be cooked slowly over low heat until genuinely caramelised - translucent, golden and sweet - which takes at least twenty minutes and sometimes thirty. This step cannot be rushed with higher heat. The resulting onion base gives Japanese curry its characteristic sweetness and depth.

The secret additions

A small amount of grated apple or a spoonful of mango chutney adds sweetness. A piece of dark chocolate dissolves into the sauce and adds depth without a chocolate flavour. A splash of soy sauce increases umami. These are the private adjustments that Japanese home cooks rarely publish but almost universally make.

Always serve over steamed white rice with a side of Japanese pickles. Browse our curry tools and plates.

Read next

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